Australian vineyards such as Ferngrove, facing a wine glut

The high end of China’s wine market may still be the domain of French (particularly Bordeaux and, increasingly, Burgundy) wineries, but as Chinese drinkers become more savvy and gradually less label-focused, New World winemakers and those from lesser-known regions in France and Italy stand to gain. According to the London-based fine wine merchants Bordeaux Index, fine wine prices retreated 7.5 percent in the third quarter of 2011, with Chinese demand for the highest of high-end bottles, particularly Chateau Lafite, showing signs of slowing after a nearly three-year-long tear. Chinese wine buyers were instrumental in the recovery at the top end of the market following the dip seen in the wake of the global economic crisis in 2008, with well-heeled drinkers and investors homing in on Lafite and other First Growths.

But now, due partly to the ubiquity, rampant counterfeiting and unsustainably high prices of Lafite and other high-profile wines, as well as interest in wine for drinking rather than hoarding, demand for mid-range wines looks set to hit new highs in China. Earlier this year, Euromonitor International estimated that wine consumption surged some 75 percent between 2005-2010, and indeed over the past several years dozens, if not hundreds, of international wineries have poured into the country, fighting to position their products in the “sweet spot” above more inexpensive domestic wines and astronomically priced top-tier bottles. Yet, of the countries currently turning to the China market as a key wine export destination, few have been as motivated as Australia.

According to WineBiz, China is currently Australia’s fourth-largest wine export market, with Aussie winemakers shipping some 55 million liters of wine to thirsty Chinese drinkers in 2010, a 36 percent rise over 2009. As the Wall Street Journal adds, Australia already has 20% market share of the Chinese imported wine market, only trailing France at 40%. And China is Australia’s largest market for wines that are sold at more than US$10.

Though China has become an increasingly reliable export market for major Aussie wineries, Australian vineyards — much like the country’s coal and iron mines — are increasingly catching the eyes of cash-rich Chinese investors. As BusinessWeek notes, despite a much-cited “wine glut” in Australia brought on by the swelling number of new wineries in the country, declining sales and increasing competition is translating to tough times for many Australian winemakers. And when these tough times hit, it seems that China is becoming the default emergency lifeline. From BusinessWeek:

    Australian vineyards such as Ferngrove, facing a wine glut, slumping exports and rising competition from countries including Chile and Argentina, are turning to China for salvation. Chinese buyers are proving receptive as they seek to meet surging demand among the nation’s rich, who are developing a taste for grape wine and the expression of wealth it conveys.

    In the Hunter Valley, where grapes were first planted in the 1820s, Chinese investors have bought six wineries in the past three months and three more sales are in the works, said Cain Beckett, director of the region’s biggest winery broker Jurd’s Real Estate. The Chinese influx is helping revive values of the Semillon and Shiraz-growing region’s 126 vineyards, which had slumped as much as 20 percent since May 2008, he said.

    “Some vendors have been on the market for four years, and expansions haven’t happened since the 1980s,” Beckett, 28, said in an interview. “Now, things are looking much more positive with Chinese investors interested and actually able to invest. We’ve even achieved sales above the asking price.”

While much of the motivation driving Chinese investors to get involved with the Australian wine market remains purely pragmatic — distressed wineries in Australia (and even in Bordeaux) need cash, and many Chinese investors want to get in while prices are low — many are betting that growing demand in China for mid-range bottles will really pay off in the long run. As Stephen Strachan, chief executive officer of the Winemakers’ Federation, said, “The Australian wine industry is going through a period of adjustment…Some assets are worth a lot more in the long term than what they’re being traded for and that’s being recognized by a number of Chinese investors.”

While Australian wines may never reach the same status or prestige as their French counterparts, their aggressive pricing, relative fruitiness and accessibility makes them, and will continue to make them, great entry-level imported wines for Chinese drinkers. As Jack Xu, a 35-year-old Shanghai-based shipping broker, put it to BusinessWeek, “Sometimes you can buy a bottle of mid-level Australian wine at 100 yuan. But I couldn’t hope to taste French wine at the same price. And Australian wine is sweeter with a richer flavor compared with wines from other countries.”

Since that first tasting, there have been a few more around the country

From a strictly contemporary viewpoint, you could say that “orange” wines were tailor-made for the wine hipster cognoscenti: Rare, not inexpensive, “difficult,” and demanding. The fascination with these wines in the U.S. can safely be attributed to one man, Levi Dalton, who held the first-ever orange wine dinner in midsummer 2009 at the now-legendary (and now-defunct) Convivio in New York City. You can read Thor Iverson's take on that historic event here. (Iverson can be long-winded, but always in an entertaining and informative way. Stay with him, and learn.)

Since that first tasting, there have been a few more around the country, but not many. The conservative consensus estimate is less than a dozen. So when Les Doss and Kathy Taylor announced an orange wine tasting at Vinsite, some of us were pretty jazzed about it--especially having it here in little ole Asheville.

From an historical viewpoint, “orange” wines have a very practical origin. Saša Radikon, son of Stanko, grandson of Franz Mikulus, explains: “In 1995 we started making white wines with lengthy periods of skin contact. This was a technique that my grandfather used because he wanted to preserve his wine for a whole year. Before my father started selling our wines, my grandfather would make wine for the whole family from our vines, but this was for personal consumption only and it had to last an entire year until the next vintage.” [from an interview with the late Joe Dressner].

Lengthy skin-contact, of course, is what makes red wines red. It seems to make white wines orange, and hence the name. Leaving the wines on the skins (maceration) for weeks and months makes white wines last longer because the skins are a source of tannins, which act as anti-oxidants. There is a catch: While lengthy maceration protects the wine from oxidizing over the long term, the process itself actually increases oxidation during fermentation. Consequently, the wines all have a distinctive oxidative tang that can come across as sherry-like or cider-like. Yet another catch: While the wines are built to last, especially after they've been opened, they typically need hours and hours of exposure to air to become palatable. The wines at the Visite tasting were all opened and double-decanted four hours ahead of time; some of them would probably benefit from two or three times as much exposure to air.

Among the questions expected to be asked by wine buyers is

A lot of different wines are being made in many parts of the world. The red wines and white wines are the most common, there are also wines coming from the “old world” and wines from the “new world”. Different flavors and makeup can be expected from wines coming from numerous vineyards. This article will concisely introduce you to the world of reds since the world of wine is so vast.

Reds is among the main varieties of wine and the rest are white, sparkling and rose. Most people conceive that red wines come from red grapes; the truth is that the red color is produced from the skins when they are left to ferment with the grape juice. The great number of different red wines suggests that the variety of wine flavors is truly great. Quite remarkable to those who are new to drinking wine given that the wine only consists of comparatively simple ingredients.

The type of grape used to make wine is the most significant factor in how the red wine tastes. The type of grape such as “Cabernet Sauvignon” or “Pinot Noir” used for making the wine is often talked about when buying or discussing on wines.

There are several aspects to grapes that will significantly change the taste of the wine. The acidity can differ widely in grape varieties and will alter the taste. Some grapes will have different aromas, such as fruity or floral, this will give those wines the aroma of the grape. Tannin is a word you will hear used a great deal in the red wine world and it greatly changes a wines taste. Thick skins lead to wine with a higher tannin concentration.

Apart from the type of grape used, the location where the wine is grown is also vital to consider. Popular locations for wines used to be the various regions of France which they consider “the old world” but now popular locations are countries like Australia and South Africa which belong to the “new world”. There are varieties of grape that grow better in one type of weather than another and this makes the location of vines making the grapes very vital. Certain combinations can produce exceptional wines like Chenin Blanc grapes in the Loire Valley.

Among the questions expected to be asked by wine buyers is; which is the best wine? There are wine buyers who still think that France makes the best wines since the country is famous when it comes to wine production and surely there’s a good reason for it. It is to some extent right that France does produce many of the world’s greatest wines but the new world is offering them a stiff competition. For examples of new world wines you can buy, check out wadebaleswinesociety.co.za.

For those who are interested to buy high end wines from the old world, you will often need to wait for the wine to age for a certain period of time. But then, if you buy from the new world, you will most likely wait for a shorter period and you’ll be able to drink them much earlier.

Like what was mentioned earlier, the taste of the wine is for the most part affected by the type of grape used so whether it has been grown in the new world or the old world, it is not just the location which matters. Old world & new world pertain on location as it is also about how the wine is produced. Old world wines typically present a lighter and more complex taste while new world wines will have simpler and sharper flavors. Wines coming from old world will have about 12% alcohol content while wines from the new world got a slightly higher alcohol content around 13-14%.

Wine taste can cross one country to another. A great example is Argentina (solidly in the new world) which was colonized by Spanish (old world) influencing them into learning their wine making methods thus Argentina does produce many wines in the old world style. Even seasoned sommeliers or wine tasters have been known to get confused by Argentinian wine! It will surely be an interesting experience to buy wine from Argentina.

As you can hopefully notice that the taste of a wine depends on a great many factors and it would be far too simple to say that one world of wine is better than another. Red wine produced by new world can rival with that of the red wine by the old world but in the end, it’s about your preference.

New world, as its name suggests has been producing wines for a much shorter time as compared to the old world. Each year that passes its red wine gets more and more praise from wine experts. It was even reported that 2 years ago during a blind wine tasting, a red wine from New Zealand received the same high rate as that of the best wines in France.

The winemakers from the new world are becoming an expert as years pass by and they are learning which soil and location is best for different varieties of grapes. Somewhat similar to the experience of wine makers from France when they started growing wine it took time for them to understand that Chenin Blanc grows well in the Loire Valley, the new world makers are going through the same learning process.

His comment seemed aimed at an economy that discourages luxury wine purchases

Dominic Nocerino oozes luxury and style, from his tailored suit and silk ties to the triple-digit prices in the portfolio of wines he has built for Vinifera Imports, the company he founded in 1979. Yet along with the good-natured instant friendship of the salesman, there is a note of exasperation in his voice as he discusses the current state of Italian wine.

“There is an overwhelming amount of industrial wine that comes here,” Nocerino says as he describes what sets his line of exquisite high-end Italian wines apart from the competition. “Cheap, cheaper, cheapest!”

The tasting lineup. Good thing there was food afterwards!

His comment seemed aimed at an economy that discourages luxury wine purchases, a clientele that perhaps is not as willing to spend as it was a few years ago, and maybe even wine writers who concentrate almost exclusively on the lower end of the price range. (Though I’m sometimes accused of having expensive tastes when I recommend – ahem – a $20 wine.)

Nocerino was speaking to a group of 50 thirsty wine lovers who were willing to shell out more than $100 for a tasting and dinner at Brabo by Robert Wiedmaier in Old Town Alexandria late last month. The pre-dinner tasting included 12 wines, four each of Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo, and Amarone – a triumvirate Nocerino dubs “The Three Kings of Italian Wine.” This was followed by a six-course dinner (with more wine) prepared by Wiedmaier and his Brabo crew. I mention this not in a don’t-you-wish-you-were-me sort of way, but to point out that splurging on an evening like this can be a tremendous experience and really a great value for anyone exploring wine.

The Vinifera Imports portfolio includes mouth-watering names such as Rinaldi, Fontodi, Pra and Valdicava. It’s a line of small producers, family owned wineries that have resisted the siren song of corporate buyouts, much as Nocerino has kept his own company small in an industry that has consolidated greatly over the past decade. While some of the wines tasted modern in style, the emphasis is on traditional winemaking methods, often with indigenous yeasts. These winemakers reject the idea that inky and oaky are signs of quality in red wine.

That quality and power was apparent from the beginning of the Brunello flight. Brunello is Tuscany’s top wine, produced from a special clone of sangiovese. (The region has been scandal-prone of late, with charges by Italian authorities that some producers spiked their wines with cabernet sauvignon. You can do that in Tuscany, but not if you want to call your wine Brunello.) The sleek and elegant Donna Olga 2006, a current release, burst from the glass with cherries and earth, and a lovely minerally texture. This was followed by the Valdicava 2004, more expressive and gamey on the nose, with a floral note and massive tannins to promise a long life. The Castello di Romitorio Riserva 2004 showed beautiful fruit in a more modern, polished style.

Barolo, made from nebbiolo grapes in Piemonte, in the mountainous northwest of Italy, tends to be earthier in aroma and flavor than Brunello. Think forest floor, mushrooms and white truffles, the region’s famous luxury gourmet item. The Giuseppe Rinaldi “Brunate le Coste” 1999 still showed bright, fresh red fruit flavors under its layer of shrooms. The Martinetti 1998 “Marasco,” named for the marasco cherry (think maraschino), left me speechless: My notes simply say, “Wow. Earthy.” But that’s “earthy” in a good sense.

The Amarone flight showed more variety in flavors and styles. Amarone, from the Veneto region, is exceptional in that the grapes are dried to raisins before pressing. This can result in sweet flavors, though these are not dessert wines. The Brigaldara 2007 smelled of chocolate and dried cherries, while the Reserva Cru “Case Vecie” 2005 from the same producer reminded me more of chocolate syrup – despite Nocerino’s claim about the style of his wines, this was powerful and thick. And delicious. The Pra 2006 (the first Amarone from this famed producer of Soave), had piney aromas that reminded me of Christmas, while the Monte Faustino 2000 was spicy with cinnamon and clove and what I could only identify as root beer. These were winter flavors, compared to the autumnal notes of Barolo.

Regular prices for the wines we tasted that night would range from $68 to $270 a bottle (the wines were offered at discounts of about 33%). They are clearly wines for collecting and saving for special occasions. But they are also reminders of the heights Italian wine can reach.

Diligently toiling away at creating another classy wine list

It’s that time of year again peeps, Halloween decorations are up and holiday shopping has begun.  I’m here to tell you the best way to shop – while drinking!  It begins with a beautiful venue, about a dozen pages of wines to sample that all can later be ordered at discounted prices.  And, to make sure you know exactly what I’m referring to, I sat my Wine Guru Guy Lelarge down to fill in the details:

“Each year, Valencia Wine Company brings you the world of wine in one day.  This year the event is held on Sunday, November the 6th from 1-5 p.m.,” began Guy.

“Weather will never be an issue as I have my suppliers pouring inside the Oaks Grille Restaurant, at TPC Valencia, and we also have the full patio where my guests are welcome to take their glass, have a seat, and enjoy a classic selection of Chef Daniel Otto’s outstanding hors d’oeuvres.

With a 10 or 12 page list of wines available to try, tasters can move freely from one tasting station to the next, without having to scrounge around for a ticket to get a taste.  If a table looks busy, there are no rules, just go to another and then swing back – I guarantee you’ll be happy with the wine selections at all the tables!

Plan on getting a world wine tour in four great hours, and then, if you like, refer to your list and place an order that day to get a discounted price after your ‘all-you-can-taste’ shopping spree.”

What Past Attendees Said

Jackie Hamby said, “Four hours of unlimited wine tasting. Heaven!”

Darlene Gandara thought it “An awesome event” mentioning the Layer Cake Cabernet Sauvignon as a favorite.

Helen LaPrairie chimed in that, “It was fantastic! Wasn’t the French Champagne at Jerome’s table delish??!! And so many others!”

Rob Trautwein told Guy that, “Monica and I had a wonderful time as usual at the TPC Holiday Wine Tasting! Wanted to thank you again for hosting such a fabulous event . . Cheers as usual!”

Stacey Mayfield contemplated, “Another beautiful Sunday wine tasting in Santa Clarita. Thank you Valencia Wine Co. After a few hours, I feel like I’ve spent a day in Napa.”

Mark White, with his lovely wife Julie, commented, “Get out of your red wine comfort zone” when faced with so many choices.

Mark and Julie White

“I have not enjoyed such an awesome display of wines and foods in all my years,” began fellow wine enthusiast – and staff writer on this website – Rusty Sly.  “I will NEVER MISS this event in the years to come.  The variety of wines from so many nations was fantastic. One Rep was pouring a $200 bottle of Meritage that was to die for. The Bordeaux, Burgundy and Chateau Neuf De Papes were great.  What I found interesting was that the wines were not the common low end wines that we find at most festivals.  These were mid to very high end wines for the people that truly enjoy wines and have a defined palate for such wines.”

And what does Guy himself say about his event?  “I do this every year because it’s a hell of a lot of fun – especially introducing, new, high quality wines to Santa Clarita.”

Wine Teasers

Guy, diligently toiling away at creating another classy wine list, told me that we will be tasting wines from the most popular wine making regions of California, Oregon and WA state, as well as other new world regions.  From France we will be tasting wines from the major wine growing regions in the Rhone Valley, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne and the Loire Valley.  From Italy we will dip into fantastic Barolos, Brunellos and Super Tuscans…

What’s New This Year

And, just for that person reading this, that can’t come, but wants to give a present to someone else: For the first time, Valencia Wine Company is offering holiday gift packages for your family, clients and friends.

Wines are made in different parts of the world in many types and variations

Wines are made in different parts of the world in many types and variations. You can find red wines and white wines including wines from “old world” and wines from the “new world”. Wines from different vineyards got a distinct flavor and composition. The world of wine is vast and through this article you’ll get to know the world of reds.

The red wine is among the main varieties of wine available today, others are white, rose and sparkling. A common misconception we have is that all red wines are made from red grapes; the truth is that the red color is produced from the skins when they are left to ferment with the grape juice. It is clear that the variety of flavors found in wines is great because of the vast number of different red wines available. Many people who are new to wine surely find this remarkable because the ingredients of the wine are minimal.

An essential factor that affects tha taste of the red wine is the type of grape used. The type of grape such as “Cabernet Sauvignon” or “Pinot Noir” used for making the wine is often talked about when buying or discussing on wines.

There are various aspects to grapes that will significantly change the taste of the wine. The acidity can differ widely in grape varieties and will change the taste. Some grapes will have distinctive aromas, such as fruity or floral, this will give those wines the aroma of the grape. Tannin is a term you will hear used a large deal in the red wine world and it greatly changes a wines taste. Thick skins lead to wine with a higher tannin concentration.

Locations where the wine is grown is also vital aside from that of the type of grape used. In the past, it would refer to various regions of France which is considered the “old world”. Now, it can mean the different countries like Australia and South Africa which are part of the “new world”. Area where the vines producing the grape is also vital since some grape varieties grow better in one climate compare to another. Certain combinations can produce exceptional wines like Chenin Blanc grapes in the Loire Valley.

Most people who are about to buy wine will ask this question; which is the best wine? Some wine buyers would think that the country France present the best wine since they are popular in wine production and there’s a good reason to it. France does produce some of greatest wines in the world but then the “new world” offers some stiff competition.

For those who are interested to buy high end wines from the old world, you will often need to wait for the wine to age for a certain period of time. But then, if you buy from the new world, you will most likely wait for a shorter period and you’ll be able to taste them much sooner.

Whether it has been produced in the new world or the old world is significant but again it is not just the location that matters but the one primary factor that affects the taste of the wine is the type of grape used. It is about knowing the way the wine is produced which is same with knowing the location when comparing old world and new world. Old world wines mostly have a lighter and more complex taste while new world wines have simpler, sharper flavors. Moreover, wines coming from the new world mostly tend to have a higher alcohol content about 13-14% compared to the 12% in wines from old world.

The taste of wines can cross borders. The country Argentina which is solidly in the new world does produce many wines in the old world style. The main reason is that when the Spanish (old world) colonised the country they brought their wine making methods with them. Wine experts have been known to be confused by Argentinian wine! Buy wine from Argentina and it will be a wonderful experience.

You must realize that the taste of a wine depends on lots of great factors and it is far too simple to say that one world of wine is better than the other one. Although some people use “new world” somewhat condescendingly, there is little truth in it. Even though, the new world produces red wines which compete well with the old world, what matters most is the predilection of an individual.

The new world has been producing wines for a shorter time compared to the old world. Year by year, the red wine from new world are getting more praises from wine experts and lovers. In a blind wine tasting done 2 years ago, a new wine from New Zealand was given a high score same as the rate given to some of the best wines in France.

New world winemakers are slowly becoming masters with each passing year and they are learning which soils and locations are great for different grapes. Winemaker from France also underwent the same learning process being learned by new world winemakers today. It took them time to discover that Chenin Blanc grows well in the Loire Valley.

This very special wine will be reserved for the main course

Rosen Centre presents its final Vine & Dine wine pairing dinner of the 2011 series, a "Vine & Dine Spooktacular" featuring the culinary wizardry of six creative chefs preparing five gourmet courses, as well as a high-end wine selection that will be announced just a few days before the dinner, long after the event is sold out. In keeping with the spooktacular theme, patrons are invited to dress in costume for the opportunity to win wines, wine-related items or hotel stays.

The wine selections are guaranteed to include some of the most expensive wines in the Rosen Centre cellar. In past years, these wines included selections from acclaimed Napa Valley wineries, including Quintessa. The only confirmed wine is a 2001 Opus One, which sells for $250-350 per bottle. This very special wine will be reserved for the main course. Guests wanting to be the first to hear about the wine selections should follow Rosen Centre on Facebook for wine announcements and other exciting offers.

Throughout the dinner, patrons will be able to "trick or treat" or sample from Rosen Centre's diverse restaurants without leaving the comfort of their seats. Each of the evening's courses will be overseen by Rosen Centre's Executive Chef Michael Rumplik, whose team has earned numerous Gold Platter awards from Meetings & Conventions magazine based on the hotel's outstanding reputation for food and beverage.

The first course will be presented by Chef Tadayoshi "Yoshi" Kohazame of Banshoo Sushi Bar. Known for his passion for seafood, an unwavering commitment to fresh, quality ingredients and a gift for artistic presentation, Chef Yoshi will serve a Banshoo Trio of Hotate Scallop Seaweed Salad, Ika Sansai Squid and Seared Yellow Fin Ahi Tuna with Garlic Ponzu.

Emeterio "Telo" Luna of 98Forty Tapas & Tequila will follow with a Tapas Trio including Mango Gazpacho with a splash of Patron Tequila, Chicken Arepa with Guajilo & Queso Fresco and a Roasted Pork Tamale with Mole and Tomatillo Sauce. Every item Chef Telo creates, from his signature ceviches, salsas and guacamoles to his quesadillas, nachos and tapas, is made from scratch using fresh ingredients, including imported Mexican spices, ground by hand using the carjeta, or stone method, to unlock their true flavors just moments before arriving at the table.

Chef Tony Novoa of Café Gauguin provides the third course of the evening. Chef Tony is known not only for his culinary skills but also for his incredibly creative presentations, including his stunning ice sculptures and elaborate carvings from fruits, vegetables and cheeses. He will present a Trio of Rigatoni stuffed with Jumbo Lump Crab, Sweet Sausage and Carmelized Onion, and Grilled Portobello and Spinach.

The main course will be prepared by none other than the head chef of the Everglades Restaurant, Chef Fred Vlachos, who is known for his prime steaks, wild game and fresh seafood, as well as his inventive use of classic Florida flavors ̶ key lime, mango, sweet plantains, rock shrimp, crab, and even alligator ̶ to create a mouthwatering selection that is unique to the Sunshine State and to Everglades Restaurant. Chef Fred will treat guests to a Beef Tenderloin stuffed with Spinach, Pancetta and Wild Mushrooms, drizzled with Cognac Cream Sauce and served with an Onion and Gruyere Potato Tartlet.

The final treat of the night comes from Pastry Chef Stephan Schmid at Smoooth Java coffee bar, who will provide a Coffee Delight Trio with Starbucks Tiramisu, Cappuccino Cheesecake and Espresso Mousse.

The evening begins at 7 p.m. with a "Pre-Party Party" in Everglades Bar where guests can mingle and unwind with the evening's first selection of wine. The group then adjourns to Everglades Restaurant, offering a comfortable, yet refined setting that evokes the natural beauty and relaxed atmosphere of the Florida Everglades, for a five-course, gourmet dinner highlighted by fresh, seasonal ingredients and wines expertly selected to complement the cuisine. During dinner, guests may engage in casual conversation about wines with an experienced wine maker or knowledgeable sommelier chosen for each event. Guests can also enter to win exciting raffle prizes, such as bottles of wine, wine-related items or hotel stays. An intimate dining experience, each Vine & Dine event is limited to no more than 40 guests, ensuring personal attention for each attendee.

The cost of the "Vine & Dine Spooktacular" is $75 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Diners may make their evenings even more special by spending the night in a deluxe guest room for a special rate of only $89 plus tax. As with all Rosen Centre dining experiences, valet parking is complimentary.

Sherry-Lehmann’s Adams Optimistic About High-End Wine Business, Expanding Into New Territory

Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, the 77-year-old retailing powerhouse in New York City, has enjoyed steady growth in the wake of the recession and continued success of its Bordeaux business after Diageo pulled out in 2010. Led by CEO Chris Adams, who was also named chairman in November 2010, the Manhattan institution totaled $44.5 million last year, and Adams says sales were up 13% in the first half of 2011. Shanken News Daily recently spoke with Adams to discuss current retail trends and Sherry-Lehmann’s outlook for the future.

SND: What changes have you seen in sales this year?

Adams: There has been a perceptible trade-up happening for us. In 2008 and 2009, we saw customers trading down: buying sparkling wines instead of Champagne, buying petite chateau Bordeaux instead of cru classé. And the 2009 Bordeaux futures campaign in the summer of ’10 sort of marked a point at which the customers felt like they could spend more money. And then that was brought home even more so in the fall of 2010 and into the holidays when we saw great Champagne sales. So there’s reason to be optimistic. For a long time it was cautious optimism, but we’re feeling much better this year than we have for the last few.

SND: How do you feel about Bordeaux’s 2010 vintage?

Adams: I’m concerned with 2010 on two fronts. One is that there is higher international demand than there’s ever been. And then we’ve lost quite a bit on currency. Having said that, we’re seeing that there’s less wine being made available to the market, so that increases the demand for what is available. At many points it becomes for the consumer a chance at access. Price becomes not completely secondary but it’s two functions: 1) Can I even get the wine? And 2) If I am getting it, where is that price relative to the market? And our position is that we’ve been doing Bordeaux futures since the 1959 vintage so we have a track record of being able to offer these wines. We feel that America should still be an attractive market and that Sherry-Lehmann should be the place that customers go to get these wines.

SND: What other trends are you seeing in lower-tier wines or in general?

Adams: We’re seeing strength in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. Argentine Malbec for us is still a growth category. Our private label there is Miguel Mendoza Malbec made by Enrique Foster. And we’re still seeing a lot of people following these wines at the $15-to-$20 price point, especially in the warmer weather. We’ve had great success in the past year with the 2009 Beaujolais. There are some benchmark wines made there, and as soon as I bring a container in, I find myself ordering another a few weeks later. So it’s nice to see the focus on affordable fresh wines still there.

SND: What regions do you sell the most of?

Adams: Most of our sales are from France—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne. Obviously, we follow the Rhône, Loire and Alsace as well. And then after that we sell a lot of wines from California. Even in the down economy, we were able to position our offerings from California to meet the right price points. And then of course Italy, Spain, Germany, Chile, plus South Africa is coming back a little bit.

SND: Spirits account for roughly 5% of your sales. Where are you seeing growth in that category?

Adams: We’re seeing a trade-up there as well. People are spending a little bit more on their vodkas and whiskies. When we moved into our current location (in 2007), spirits became a growth category for us but it’s leveled off. There’s still a little bit of growth, but it’s not astronomical like it was when we first moved here.

SND: How do you feel about wine being sold in grocery stores?

Adams: We don’t believe that it’s the right thing. And for me it’s a matter of, you can’t just suddenly change the rules and tell people that all the business models they’ve built for decades or years are no longer applicable. It just doesn’t seem that any proposal I’ve seen for wine in grocery stores deals effectively with the people who have existing businesses. Is it impossible? I’m not going to say that, but they haven’t shown anything (that seems fair).

SND: What are your plans for the future? Are you still considering opening new stores?

Adams: Now that the economy is getting brighter, there are a few things I’ve been thinking about. I can’t disclose too much, but yes, we’re interested in positioning this store outside of New York state the way it should be positioned. I’m taking it quite seriously. I hope that we can do something in the next 12 to 18 months. I’m optimistic that it can be fulfilled.

There lots of reasons to buycheap wine glarses

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The book can be split into three parts

The concept of ‘naked’ or ‘natural’ wine is best understood by what it is a reaction to. On my honeymoon a couple of years ago my wife and I stopped at a winery in the Napa Valley. There was a tasting room in varnished pine with a marble floor. We paid $25 (it may even have been $25 each) and the man behind the counter poured out a glass of something approaching the consistency of cough syrup. It smelt of coffee and Ribena. So thick was the wine that sipping it proved to be a challenge. On swallowing my mouth was overwhelmed with tannin, alcohol, sweetness, chocolate and coconuts. I made a face and the man behind the counter smiled and said ‘it’s good isn’t it? Our wine maker designs them so you can still taste it fifteen minutes later.’

Alice Feiring has a word for wines like this – ‘spofolated’ – high alcohol wines made from over ripe grapes pumped up with added tannin, enzymes, yeast, tartaric acid, and smothered with sulphur dioxide to make them stable. These are expensive wines designed to impress rather than to drink with food. Naked Wine is her exploration of people trying to make wines with as little manipulation or addition as possible; wines that reflect where they come from and the vintage. Her last book, The Battle for Wine and Love, was a not entirely successful blend of autobiography and wine manifesto. I enjoyed it but also found it frustrating. The new one though still eccentric is much tighter, more thoughtful and surprisingly unpolemical. It’s both a voyage of discovery and a snapshot of an exciting time to drink wine.

The book can be split into three parts. In the first part Alice attempts to make her own wine at DaVero winery in Sonoma from the sagranto grape and is frustrated with the compromises that she has to make – adding water to the wine to temper the high alcohol and using sulphur. Perhaps California really is only good for designer wines. The second part is a quest through Europe to find the best way to make ‘naked wines.’ Is it possible to make a wine without compromise? There are echoes of great quest stories especially The Wizard of Oz with Alice as Dorothy looking for home. The wizard role is played by a French vigneron called Jacques Neauport.  All along the way she keeps hearing his name sometimes in praise or sometimes mentioned as a once great man who had lost his way. The second part ends with an anti-climactic meeting with Neauport who claims no great wisdom only to want to make wines that he can drink in large quantities. Could the great wizard be merely a drunk?

Neauport isn’t the messiah but in refusing this role he imparts the wisdom that Dorothy, sorry I mean Alice, knew the answer all along: ‘naked wine’ is an ideal not a formula or a dogma. Each vintage must be approached anew. You might have to compromise and use sulphur, add water or, heaven forbid, use cultured yeasts because in the end your livelihood depends on making something to sell. Part three has her visiting a Californian wine maker called Coturri who produces kosher wines that would probably appeal to M. Neauport. Finally at the end she tries her own wine again: ‘the wine was good and I was proud.’ Alice realises that her country can make wines free of artifice. She is home. The book, however, ends for me on a melancholy note as her wine will be sold, to Alice’s dismay, by DaVero for $75-100 a bottle. Most of the European wines that she loves cost between $15-$30. Wine in California is still and probably always will be a rich man’s hobby whereas in Europe it is imbedded in the culture.

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