Sake or saké is a Japanese alcoholic beverage made from rice. This beverage
is called sake in English, but in Japanese, sake or o-sake refers to
alcoholic drinks in general. The Japanese term for this specific beverage is
Nihonshu, meaning "Japanese sake". Sake is also referred to in English as
rice wine. However, unlike true wine, in which alcohol is produced by fermenting
the sugar naturally present in fruit, sake is made through a brewing process
more like that of beer. To make beer or sake, the sugar needed to produce
alcohol must first be converted from starch. But the brewing process for sake
differs from beer brewing as well, notably in that for beer, the conversion of
starch to sugar and sugar to alcohol occurs in two discrete steps, but with sake
they occur simultaneously. Additionally, alcohol content also differs between
sake, wine, and beer.
Interestingly, though, traditionally in Japan sake and food have not been
paired as precisely as wine and food in the west. Sure, they have always enjoyed
sake with food in Japan. But
sake was used to support the food, taking a
supporting role. “Ryori ni jama shinai,” they say. “Sake that does not interfere
with the food.” Sure; this is changing. But historically, and often today as
well, this was the thinking.
So what do you look for? What do you latch on to when pairing? Lots of
things. Sweetness or dryness, fruity aromas or earthy ones, flavors that can run
from rice-like to herbal or nutty. Structure, volume, acidity, texture, and
length of finish are valid too.
In Japan drinking sake has always been accompanied by eating, and there are
some traditional and classic combinations, such as sake with sashimi. (Although
sake is also served with sushi (vinegared rice) some traditionalists maintain
that, once rice is brought to table the sake should go, as it’s considered that
rice with rice is too much of a good thing.)
Philip Harper says that sake is the preferred partner for raw fish, because
fishy odours can be amplified by beer and some wines. Lighter sakes are best
here – a DaiGinjo (Chikuha is a good one) a fruity Ginjo, or even a crisp dry
Honjozo – served chilled at 5-10°C.
Later on in the meal when grilled or fried dishes appear, an umami-rich
sake with high acidity, such as ayamahai or junmai, is what you want to help
oily dishes such as tempura or grilled eel, or rich spicy meat dishes, such as
Korean barbecue.
Sake is especially good with fermented foods – and this includes a great
number of the staples of Japanese cuisine – soy sauce and miso in particular.
Indeed sake itself is an important part of Japanese cooking – it reduces odour
and lessens bitterness, so it’s commonly used to poach fish. So any dish with
miso or soy sauce is enhanced by sake.
Sake is also good with traditional pickled foods, as the pickling process
(using salt, rice bran or sake kasu – the lees or solids left when sake is
pressed) increases the amino acid content.
The presence of koji mould in sake means that sake can marry surprisingly
well with cheeses, especially creamy, aromatic and mild types. (The Kyodogakusha
Shintoku Co-operative in Hokkaido have developed a cheese whose rind is washed
in sake – a particularly good pairing).
One more biggie with sake and food is umami – that elusive savoriness that
some call a fifth flavor element. Without it, sake is too simple. Too much umami
and it’s cloying. But matching umami in sake and food is a great pairing
principle.
Premium sake has easily proven itself to be worthy of appreciation on the
same level as fine wine. The fragrances, flavors, complexity and nuances can
draw you in and fascinate. And the range of these flavors and fragrances, while
admittedly within a more narrow bandwidth than the wine world can hold, are
incredibly diverse.
A natural extension of all this is the concept and practice of matching
food and sake. With the advent of fine sake in the west, not only does the door
open for this bold new world of match-making, but at the same time the sake
industry duly inherits a veritable responsibility to educate the interested
public on how to go about this.
The matching of sake and food developed much like the matching of wine and
food: the local beverage was a natural counterpart to the local cuisine; so much
so that no one ever thought much about it.
If you study the flavor profiles of sake from around Japan, you can easily
see how well the local sake jibes with the original cuisine of the region. Sake
from mountainous regions of Japan, like the Tohoku region in the north, is
sturdier and more rice-laden in flavor, complementing well the salt-preserved
and fermented flavors common in that region's food. Sake from Shizuoka, Toyama
and Miyagi are lighter and more supple, which works perfectly with the abundance
of fresh fish found in these areas.
But now, like wine from Europe, sake is being taken out of its original
zone of familiarity, and transported to a world bound neither by geographical
nor culinary limitations. A bit of imagination and ingenuity - not to mention
vision - are called for.
In developing a sense for matching food and sake, a little bit of theory
goes a long way. With this, and a healthy dose of confidence and creativity,
pairing sake and food becomes a wonderfully fun, if subjective and imprecise,
process.