Tuesday, October 11, 2011

This very special wine will be reserved for the main course

Rosen Centre presents its final Vine & Dine wine pairing dinner of the 2011 series, a "Vine & Dine Spooktacular" featuring the culinary wizardry of six creative chefs preparing five gourmet courses, as well as a high-end wine selection that will be announced just a few days before the dinner, long after the event is sold out. In keeping with the spooktacular theme, patrons are invited to dress in costume for the opportunity to win wines, wine-related items or hotel stays.



The wine selections are guaranteed to include some of the most expensive wines in the Rosen Centre cellar. In past years, these wines included selections from acclaimed Napa Valley wineries, including Quintessa. The only confirmed wine is a 2001 Opus One, which sells for $250-350 per bottle. This very special wine will be reserved for the main course. Guests wanting to be the first to hear about the wine selections should follow Rosen Centre on Facebook for wine announcements and other exciting offers.

Throughout the dinner, patrons will be able to "trick or treat" or sample from Rosen Centre's diverse restaurants without leaving the comfort of their seats. Each of the evening's courses will be overseen by Rosen Centre's Executive Chef Michael Rumplik, whose team has earned numerous Gold Platter awards from Meetings & Conventions magazine based on the hotel's outstanding reputation for food and beverage.

The first course will be presented by Chef Tadayoshi "Yoshi" Kohazame of Banshoo Sushi Bar. Known for his passion for seafood, an unwavering commitment to fresh, quality ingredients and a gift for artistic presentation, Chef Yoshi will serve a Banshoo Trio of Hotate Scallop Seaweed Salad, Ika Sansai Squid and Seared Yellow Fin Ahi Tuna with Garlic Ponzu.

Emeterio "Telo" Luna of 98Forty Tapas & Tequila will follow with a Tapas Trio including Mango Gazpacho with a splash of Patron Tequila, Chicken Arepa with Guajilo & Queso Fresco and a Roasted Pork Tamale with Mole and Tomatillo Sauce. Every item Chef Telo creates, from his signature ceviches, salsas and guacamoles to his quesadillas, nachos and tapas, is made from scratch using fresh ingredients, including imported Mexican spices, ground by hand using the carjeta, or stone method, to unlock their true flavors just moments before arriving at the table.

Chef Tony Novoa of Café Gauguin provides the third course of the evening. Chef Tony is known not only for his culinary skills but also for his incredibly creative presentations, including his stunning ice sculptures and elaborate carvings from fruits, vegetables and cheeses. He will present a Trio of Rigatoni stuffed with Jumbo Lump Crab, Sweet Sausage and Carmelized Onion, and Grilled Portobello and Spinach.
The main course will be prepared by none other than the head chef of the Everglades Restaurant, Chef Fred Vlachos, who is known for his prime steaks, wild game and fresh seafood, as well as his inventive use of classic Florida flavors ̶ key lime, mango, sweet plantains, rock shrimp, crab, and even alligator ̶ to create a mouthwatering selection that is unique to the Sunshine State and to Everglades Restaurant. Chef Fred will treat guests to a Beef Tenderloin stuffed with Spinach, Pancetta and Wild Mushrooms, drizzled with Cognac Cream Sauce and served with an Onion and Gruyere Potato Tartlet.

The final treat of the night comes from Pastry Chef Stephan Schmid at Smoooth Java coffee bar, who will provide a Coffee Delight Trio with Starbucks Tiramisu, Cappuccino Cheesecake and Espresso Mousse.

The evening begins at 7 p.m. with a "Pre-Party Party" in Everglades Bar where guests can mingle and unwind with the evening's first selection of wine. The group then adjourns to Everglades Restaurant, offering a comfortable, yet refined setting that evokes the natural beauty and relaxed atmosphere of the Florida Everglades, for a five-course, gourmet dinner highlighted by fresh, seasonal ingredients and wines expertly selected to complement the cuisine. During dinner, guests may engage in casual conversation about wines with an experienced wine maker or knowledgeable sommelier chosen for each event. Guests can also enter to win exciting raffle prizes, such as bottles of wine, wine-related items or hotel stays. An intimate dining experience, each Vine & Dine event is limited to no more than 40 guests, ensuring personal attention for each attendee.

The cost of the "Vine & Dine Spooktacular" is $75 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Diners may make their evenings even more special by spending the night in a deluxe guest room for a special rate of only $89 plus tax. As with all Rosen Centre dining experiences, valet parking is complimentary.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Sherry-Lehmann’s Adams Optimistic About High-End Wine Business, Expanding Into New Territory

Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, the 77-year-old retailing powerhouse in New York City, has enjoyed steady growth in the wake of the recession and continued success of its Bordeaux business after Diageo pulled out in 2010. Led by CEO Chris Adams, who was also named chairman in November 2010, the Manhattan institution totaled $44.5 million last year, and Adams says sales were up 13% in the first half of 2011. Shanken News Daily recently spoke with Adams to discuss current retail trends and Sherry-Lehmann’s outlook for the future.


SND: What changes have you seen in sales this year?

Adams: There has been a perceptible trade-up happening for us. In 2008 and 2009, we saw customers trading down: buying sparkling wines instead of Champagne, buying petite chateau Bordeaux instead of cru classé. And the 2009 Bordeaux futures campaign in the summer of ’10 sort of marked a point at which the customers felt like they could spend more money. And then that was brought home even more so in the fall of 2010 and into the holidays when we saw great Champagne sales. So there’s reason to be optimistic. For a long time it was cautious optimism, but we’re feeling much better this year than we have for the last few.

SND: How do you feel about Bordeaux’s 2010 vintage?

Adams: I’m concerned with 2010 on two fronts. One is that there is higher international demand than there’s ever been. And then we’ve lost quite a bit on currency. Having said that, we’re seeing that there’s less wine being made available to the market, so that increases the demand for what is available. At many points it becomes for the consumer a chance at access. Price becomes not completely secondary but it’s two functions: 1) Can I even get the wine? And 2) If I am getting it, where is that price relative to the market? And our position is that we’ve been doing Bordeaux futures since the 1959 vintage so we have a track record of being able to offer these wines. We feel that America should still be an attractive market and that Sherry-Lehmann should be the place that customers go to get these wines.

SND: What other trends are you seeing in lower-tier wines or in general?

Adams: We’re seeing strength in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. Argentine Malbec for us is still a growth category. Our private label there is Miguel Mendoza Malbec made by Enrique Foster. And we’re still seeing a lot of people following these wines at the $15-to-$20 price point, especially in the warmer weather. We’ve had great success in the past year with the 2009 Beaujolais. There are some benchmark wines made there, and as soon as I bring a container in, I find myself ordering another a few weeks later. So it’s nice to see the focus on affordable fresh wines still there.

SND: What regions do you sell the most of?

Adams: Most of our sales are from France—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne. Obviously, we follow the Rhône, Loire and Alsace as well. And then after that we sell a lot of wines from California. Even in the down economy, we were able to position our offerings from California to meet the right price points. And then of course Italy, Spain, Germany, Chile, plus South Africa is coming back a little bit.

SND: Spirits account for roughly 5% of your sales. Where are you seeing growth in that category?
Adams: We’re seeing a trade-up there as well. People are spending a little bit more on their vodkas and whiskies. When we moved into our current location (in 2007), spirits became a growth category for us but it’s leveled off. There’s still a little bit of growth, but it’s not astronomical like it was when we first moved here.

SND: How do you feel about wine being sold in grocery stores?

Adams: We don’t believe that it’s the right thing. And for me it’s a matter of, you can’t just suddenly change the rules and tell people that all the business models they’ve built for decades or years are no longer applicable. It just doesn’t seem that any proposal I’ve seen for wine in grocery stores deals effectively with the people who have existing businesses. Is it impossible? I’m not going to say that, but they haven’t shown anything (that seems fair).

SND: What are your plans for the future? Are you still considering opening new stores?

Adams: Now that the economy is getting brighter, there are a few things I’ve been thinking about. I can’t disclose too much, but yes, we’re interested in positioning this store outside of New York state the way it should be positioned. I’m taking it quite seriously. I hope that we can do something in the next 12 to 18 months. I’m optimistic that it can be fulfilled.

Sunday, October 9, 2011

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Friday, October 7, 2011

The book can be split into three parts


The concept of ‘naked’ or ‘natural’ wine is best understood by what it is a reaction to. On my honeymoon a couple of years ago my wife and I stopped at a winery in the Napa Valley. There was a tasting room in varnished pine with a marble floor. We paid $25 (it may even have been $25 each) and the man behind the counter poured out a glass of something approaching the consistency of cough syrup. It smelt of coffee and Ribena. So thick was the wine that sipping it proved to be a challenge. On swallowing my mouth was overwhelmed with tannin, alcohol, sweetness, chocolate and coconuts. I made a face and the man behind the counter smiled and said ‘it’s good isn’t it? Our wine maker designs them so you can still taste it fifteen minutes later.’

Alice Feiring has a word for wines like this – ‘spofolated’ – high alcohol wines made from over ripe grapes pumped up with added tannin, enzymes, yeast, tartaric acid, and smothered with sulphur dioxide to make them stable. These are expensive wines designed to impress rather than to drink with food. Naked Wine is her exploration of people trying to make wines with as little manipulation or addition as possible; wines that reflect where they come from and the vintage. Her last book, The Battle for Wine and Love, was a not entirely successful blend of autobiography and wine manifesto. I enjoyed it but also found it frustrating. The new one though still eccentric is much tighter, more thoughtful and surprisingly unpolemical. It’s both a voyage of discovery and a snapshot of an exciting time to drink wine.

The book can be split into three parts. In the first part Alice attempts to make her own wine at DaVero winery in Sonoma from the sagranto grape and is frustrated with the compromises that she has to make – adding water to the wine to temper the high alcohol and using sulphur. Perhaps California really is only good for designer wines. The second part is a quest through Europe to find the best way to make ‘naked wines.’ Is it possible to make a wine without compromise? There are echoes of great quest stories especially The Wizard of Oz with Alice as Dorothy looking for home. The wizard role is played by a French vigneron called Jacques Neauport.  All along the way she keeps hearing his name sometimes in praise or sometimes mentioned as a once great man who had lost his way. The second part ends with an anti-climactic meeting with Neauport who claims no great wisdom only to want to make wines that he can drink in large quantities. Could the great wizard be merely a drunk?
Neauport isn’t the messiah but in refusing this role he imparts the wisdom that Dorothy, sorry I mean Alice, knew the answer all along: ‘naked wine’ is an ideal not a formula or a dogma. Each vintage must be approached anew. You might have to compromise and use sulphur, add water or, heaven forbid, use cultured yeasts because in the end your livelihood depends on making something to sell. Part three has her visiting a Californian wine maker called Coturri who produces kosher wines that would probably appeal to M. Neauport. Finally at the end she tries her own wine again: ‘the wine was good and I was proud.’ Alice realises that her country can make wines free of artifice. She is home. The book, however, ends for me on a melancholy note as her wine will be sold, to Alice’s dismay, by DaVero for $75-100 a bottle. Most of the European wines that she loves cost between $15-$30. Wine in California is still and probably always will be a rich man’s hobby whereas in Europe it is imbedded in the culture.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

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