His comment seemed aimed at an economy that discourages luxury wine purchases

Dominic Nocerino oozes luxury and style, from his tailored suit and silk ties to the triple-digit prices in the portfolio of wines he has built for Vinifera Imports, the company he founded in 1979. Yet along with the good-natured instant friendship of the salesman, there is a note of exasperation in his voice as he discusses the current state of Italian wine.

“There is an overwhelming amount of industrial wine that comes here,” Nocerino says as he describes what sets his line of exquisite high-end Italian wines apart from the competition. “Cheap, cheaper, cheapest!”

The tasting lineup. Good thing there was food afterwards!

His comment seemed aimed at an economy that discourages luxury wine purchases, a clientele that perhaps is not as willing to spend as it was a few years ago, and maybe even wine writers who concentrate almost exclusively on the lower end of the price range. (Though I’m sometimes accused of having expensive tastes when I recommend – ahem – a $20 wine.)

Nocerino was speaking to a group of 50 thirsty wine lovers who were willing to shell out more than $100 for a tasting and dinner at Brabo by Robert Wiedmaier in Old Town Alexandria late last month. The pre-dinner tasting included 12 wines, four each of Brunello di Montalcino, Barolo, and Amarone – a triumvirate Nocerino dubs “The Three Kings of Italian Wine.” This was followed by a six-course dinner (with more wine) prepared by Wiedmaier and his Brabo crew. I mention this not in a don’t-you-wish-you-were-me sort of way, but to point out that splurging on an evening like this can be a tremendous experience and really a great value for anyone exploring wine.

The Vinifera Imports portfolio includes mouth-watering names such as Rinaldi, Fontodi, Pra and Valdicava. It’s a line of small producers, family owned wineries that have resisted the siren song of corporate buyouts, much as Nocerino has kept his own company small in an industry that has consolidated greatly over the past decade. While some of the wines tasted modern in style, the emphasis is on traditional winemaking methods, often with indigenous yeasts. These winemakers reject the idea that inky and oaky are signs of quality in red wine.

That quality and power was apparent from the beginning of the Brunello flight. Brunello is Tuscany’s top wine, produced from a special clone of sangiovese. (The region has been scandal-prone of late, with charges by Italian authorities that some producers spiked their wines with cabernet sauvignon. You can do that in Tuscany, but not if you want to call your wine Brunello.) The sleek and elegant Donna Olga 2006, a current release, burst from the glass with cherries and earth, and a lovely minerally texture. This was followed by the Valdicava 2004, more expressive and gamey on the nose, with a floral note and massive tannins to promise a long life. The Castello di Romitorio Riserva 2004 showed beautiful fruit in a more modern, polished style.

Barolo, made from nebbiolo grapes in Piemonte, in the mountainous northwest of Italy, tends to be earthier in aroma and flavor than Brunello. Think forest floor, mushrooms and white truffles, the region’s famous luxury gourmet item. The Giuseppe Rinaldi “Brunate le Coste” 1999 still showed bright, fresh red fruit flavors under its layer of shrooms. The Martinetti 1998 “Marasco,” named for the marasco cherry (think maraschino), left me speechless: My notes simply say, “Wow. Earthy.” But that’s “earthy” in a good sense.

The Amarone flight showed more variety in flavors and styles. Amarone, from the Veneto region, is exceptional in that the grapes are dried to raisins before pressing. This can result in sweet flavors, though these are not dessert wines. The Brigaldara 2007 smelled of chocolate and dried cherries, while the Reserva Cru “Case Vecie” 2005 from the same producer reminded me more of chocolate syrup – despite Nocerino’s claim about the style of his wines, this was powerful and thick. And delicious. The Pra 2006 (the first Amarone from this famed producer of Soave), had piney aromas that reminded me of Christmas, while the Monte Faustino 2000 was spicy with cinnamon and clove and what I could only identify as root beer. These were winter flavors, compared to the autumnal notes of Barolo.

Regular prices for the wines we tasted that night would range from $68 to $270 a bottle (the wines were offered at discounts of about 33%). They are clearly wines for collecting and saving for special occasions. But they are also reminders of the heights Italian wine can reach.

Diligently toiling away at creating another classy wine list

It’s that time of year again peeps, Halloween decorations are up and holiday shopping has begun.  I’m here to tell you the best way to shop – while drinking!  It begins with a beautiful venue, about a dozen pages of wines to sample that all can later be ordered at discounted prices.  And, to make sure you know exactly what I’m referring to, I sat my Wine Guru Guy Lelarge down to fill in the details:

“Each year, Valencia Wine Company brings you the world of wine in one day.  This year the event is held on Sunday, November the 6th from 1-5 p.m.,” began Guy.

“Weather will never be an issue as I have my suppliers pouring inside the Oaks Grille Restaurant, at TPC Valencia, and we also have the full patio where my guests are welcome to take their glass, have a seat, and enjoy a classic selection of Chef Daniel Otto’s outstanding hors d’oeuvres.

With a 10 or 12 page list of wines available to try, tasters can move freely from one tasting station to the next, without having to scrounge around for a ticket to get a taste.  If a table looks busy, there are no rules, just go to another and then swing back – I guarantee you’ll be happy with the wine selections at all the tables!

Plan on getting a world wine tour in four great hours, and then, if you like, refer to your list and place an order that day to get a discounted price after your ‘all-you-can-taste’ shopping spree.”

What Past Attendees Said

Jackie Hamby said, “Four hours of unlimited wine tasting. Heaven!”

Darlene Gandara thought it “An awesome event” mentioning the Layer Cake Cabernet Sauvignon as a favorite.

Helen LaPrairie chimed in that, “It was fantastic! Wasn’t the French Champagne at Jerome’s table delish??!! And so many others!”

Rob Trautwein told Guy that, “Monica and I had a wonderful time as usual at the TPC Holiday Wine Tasting! Wanted to thank you again for hosting such a fabulous event . . Cheers as usual!”

Stacey Mayfield contemplated, “Another beautiful Sunday wine tasting in Santa Clarita. Thank you Valencia Wine Co. After a few hours, I feel like I’ve spent a day in Napa.”

Mark White, with his lovely wife Julie, commented, “Get out of your red wine comfort zone” when faced with so many choices.

Mark and Julie White

“I have not enjoyed such an awesome display of wines and foods in all my years,” began fellow wine enthusiast – and staff writer on this website – Rusty Sly.  “I will NEVER MISS this event in the years to come.  The variety of wines from so many nations was fantastic. One Rep was pouring a $200 bottle of Meritage that was to die for. The Bordeaux, Burgundy and Chateau Neuf De Papes were great.  What I found interesting was that the wines were not the common low end wines that we find at most festivals.  These were mid to very high end wines for the people that truly enjoy wines and have a defined palate for such wines.”

And what does Guy himself say about his event?  “I do this every year because it’s a hell of a lot of fun – especially introducing, new, high quality wines to Santa Clarita.”

Wine Teasers

Guy, diligently toiling away at creating another classy wine list, told me that we will be tasting wines from the most popular wine making regions of California, Oregon and WA state, as well as other new world regions.  From France we will be tasting wines from the major wine growing regions in the Rhone Valley, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne and the Loire Valley.  From Italy we will dip into fantastic Barolos, Brunellos and Super Tuscans…

What’s New This Year

And, just for that person reading this, that can’t come, but wants to give a present to someone else: For the first time, Valencia Wine Company is offering holiday gift packages for your family, clients and friends.

Wines are made in different parts of the world in many types and variations

Wines are made in different parts of the world in many types and variations. You can find red wines and white wines including wines from “old world” and wines from the “new world”. Wines from different vineyards got a distinct flavor and composition. The world of wine is vast and through this article you’ll get to know the world of reds.

The red wine is among the main varieties of wine available today, others are white, rose and sparkling. A common misconception we have is that all red wines are made from red grapes; the truth is that the red color is produced from the skins when they are left to ferment with the grape juice. It is clear that the variety of flavors found in wines is great because of the vast number of different red wines available. Many people who are new to wine surely find this remarkable because the ingredients of the wine are minimal.

An essential factor that affects tha taste of the red wine is the type of grape used. The type of grape such as “Cabernet Sauvignon” or “Pinot Noir” used for making the wine is often talked about when buying or discussing on wines.

There are various aspects to grapes that will significantly change the taste of the wine. The acidity can differ widely in grape varieties and will change the taste. Some grapes will have distinctive aromas, such as fruity or floral, this will give those wines the aroma of the grape. Tannin is a term you will hear used a large deal in the red wine world and it greatly changes a wines taste. Thick skins lead to wine with a higher tannin concentration.

Locations where the wine is grown is also vital aside from that of the type of grape used. In the past, it would refer to various regions of France which is considered the “old world”. Now, it can mean the different countries like Australia and South Africa which are part of the “new world”. Area where the vines producing the grape is also vital since some grape varieties grow better in one climate compare to another. Certain combinations can produce exceptional wines like Chenin Blanc grapes in the Loire Valley.

Most people who are about to buy wine will ask this question; which is the best wine? Some wine buyers would think that the country France present the best wine since they are popular in wine production and there’s a good reason to it. France does produce some of greatest wines in the world but then the “new world” offers some stiff competition.

For those who are interested to buy high end wines from the old world, you will often need to wait for the wine to age for a certain period of time. But then, if you buy from the new world, you will most likely wait for a shorter period and you’ll be able to taste them much sooner.

Whether it has been produced in the new world or the old world is significant but again it is not just the location that matters but the one primary factor that affects the taste of the wine is the type of grape used. It is about knowing the way the wine is produced which is same with knowing the location when comparing old world and new world. Old world wines mostly have a lighter and more complex taste while new world wines have simpler, sharper flavors. Moreover, wines coming from the new world mostly tend to have a higher alcohol content about 13-14% compared to the 12% in wines from old world.

The taste of wines can cross borders. The country Argentina which is solidly in the new world does produce many wines in the old world style. The main reason is that when the Spanish (old world) colonised the country they brought their wine making methods with them. Wine experts have been known to be confused by Argentinian wine! Buy wine from Argentina and it will be a wonderful experience.

You must realize that the taste of a wine depends on lots of great factors and it is far too simple to say that one world of wine is better than the other one. Although some people use “new world” somewhat condescendingly, there is little truth in it. Even though, the new world produces red wines which compete well with the old world, what matters most is the predilection of an individual.

The new world has been producing wines for a shorter time compared to the old world. Year by year, the red wine from new world are getting more praises from wine experts and lovers. In a blind wine tasting done 2 years ago, a new wine from New Zealand was given a high score same as the rate given to some of the best wines in France.

New world winemakers are slowly becoming masters with each passing year and they are learning which soils and locations are great for different grapes. Winemaker from France also underwent the same learning process being learned by new world winemakers today. It took them time to discover that Chenin Blanc grows well in the Loire Valley.

This very special wine will be reserved for the main course

Rosen Centre presents its final Vine & Dine wine pairing dinner of the 2011 series, a "Vine & Dine Spooktacular" featuring the culinary wizardry of six creative chefs preparing five gourmet courses, as well as a high-end wine selection that will be announced just a few days before the dinner, long after the event is sold out. In keeping with the spooktacular theme, patrons are invited to dress in costume for the opportunity to win wines, wine-related items or hotel stays.

The wine selections are guaranteed to include some of the most expensive wines in the Rosen Centre cellar. In past years, these wines included selections from acclaimed Napa Valley wineries, including Quintessa. The only confirmed wine is a 2001 Opus One, which sells for $250-350 per bottle. This very special wine will be reserved for the main course. Guests wanting to be the first to hear about the wine selections should follow Rosen Centre on Facebook for wine announcements and other exciting offers.

Throughout the dinner, patrons will be able to "trick or treat" or sample from Rosen Centre's diverse restaurants without leaving the comfort of their seats. Each of the evening's courses will be overseen by Rosen Centre's Executive Chef Michael Rumplik, whose team has earned numerous Gold Platter awards from Meetings & Conventions magazine based on the hotel's outstanding reputation for food and beverage.

The first course will be presented by Chef Tadayoshi "Yoshi" Kohazame of Banshoo Sushi Bar. Known for his passion for seafood, an unwavering commitment to fresh, quality ingredients and a gift for artistic presentation, Chef Yoshi will serve a Banshoo Trio of Hotate Scallop Seaweed Salad, Ika Sansai Squid and Seared Yellow Fin Ahi Tuna with Garlic Ponzu.

Emeterio "Telo" Luna of 98Forty Tapas & Tequila will follow with a Tapas Trio including Mango Gazpacho with a splash of Patron Tequila, Chicken Arepa with Guajilo & Queso Fresco and a Roasted Pork Tamale with Mole and Tomatillo Sauce. Every item Chef Telo creates, from his signature ceviches, salsas and guacamoles to his quesadillas, nachos and tapas, is made from scratch using fresh ingredients, including imported Mexican spices, ground by hand using the carjeta, or stone method, to unlock their true flavors just moments before arriving at the table.

Chef Tony Novoa of Café Gauguin provides the third course of the evening. Chef Tony is known not only for his culinary skills but also for his incredibly creative presentations, including his stunning ice sculptures and elaborate carvings from fruits, vegetables and cheeses. He will present a Trio of Rigatoni stuffed with Jumbo Lump Crab, Sweet Sausage and Carmelized Onion, and Grilled Portobello and Spinach.

The main course will be prepared by none other than the head chef of the Everglades Restaurant, Chef Fred Vlachos, who is known for his prime steaks, wild game and fresh seafood, as well as his inventive use of classic Florida flavors ̶ key lime, mango, sweet plantains, rock shrimp, crab, and even alligator ̶ to create a mouthwatering selection that is unique to the Sunshine State and to Everglades Restaurant. Chef Fred will treat guests to a Beef Tenderloin stuffed with Spinach, Pancetta and Wild Mushrooms, drizzled with Cognac Cream Sauce and served with an Onion and Gruyere Potato Tartlet.

The final treat of the night comes from Pastry Chef Stephan Schmid at Smoooth Java coffee bar, who will provide a Coffee Delight Trio with Starbucks Tiramisu, Cappuccino Cheesecake and Espresso Mousse.

The evening begins at 7 p.m. with a "Pre-Party Party" in Everglades Bar where guests can mingle and unwind with the evening's first selection of wine. The group then adjourns to Everglades Restaurant, offering a comfortable, yet refined setting that evokes the natural beauty and relaxed atmosphere of the Florida Everglades, for a five-course, gourmet dinner highlighted by fresh, seasonal ingredients and wines expertly selected to complement the cuisine. During dinner, guests may engage in casual conversation about wines with an experienced wine maker or knowledgeable sommelier chosen for each event. Guests can also enter to win exciting raffle prizes, such as bottles of wine, wine-related items or hotel stays. An intimate dining experience, each Vine & Dine event is limited to no more than 40 guests, ensuring personal attention for each attendee.

The cost of the "Vine & Dine Spooktacular" is $75 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Diners may make their evenings even more special by spending the night in a deluxe guest room for a special rate of only $89 plus tax. As with all Rosen Centre dining experiences, valet parking is complimentary.

Sherry-Lehmann’s Adams Optimistic About High-End Wine Business, Expanding Into New Territory

Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits, the 77-year-old retailing powerhouse in New York City, has enjoyed steady growth in the wake of the recession and continued success of its Bordeaux business after Diageo pulled out in 2010. Led by CEO Chris Adams, who was also named chairman in November 2010, the Manhattan institution totaled $44.5 million last year, and Adams says sales were up 13% in the first half of 2011. Shanken News Daily recently spoke with Adams to discuss current retail trends and Sherry-Lehmann’s outlook for the future.

SND: What changes have you seen in sales this year?

Adams: There has been a perceptible trade-up happening for us. In 2008 and 2009, we saw customers trading down: buying sparkling wines instead of Champagne, buying petite chateau Bordeaux instead of cru classé. And the 2009 Bordeaux futures campaign in the summer of ’10 sort of marked a point at which the customers felt like they could spend more money. And then that was brought home even more so in the fall of 2010 and into the holidays when we saw great Champagne sales. So there’s reason to be optimistic. For a long time it was cautious optimism, but we’re feeling much better this year than we have for the last few.

SND: How do you feel about Bordeaux’s 2010 vintage?

Adams: I’m concerned with 2010 on two fronts. One is that there is higher international demand than there’s ever been. And then we’ve lost quite a bit on currency. Having said that, we’re seeing that there’s less wine being made available to the market, so that increases the demand for what is available. At many points it becomes for the consumer a chance at access. Price becomes not completely secondary but it’s two functions: 1) Can I even get the wine? And 2) If I am getting it, where is that price relative to the market? And our position is that we’ve been doing Bordeaux futures since the 1959 vintage so we have a track record of being able to offer these wines. We feel that America should still be an attractive market and that Sherry-Lehmann should be the place that customers go to get these wines.

SND: What other trends are you seeing in lower-tier wines or in general?

Adams: We’re seeing strength in New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. Argentine Malbec for us is still a growth category. Our private label there is Miguel Mendoza Malbec made by Enrique Foster. And we’re still seeing a lot of people following these wines at the $15-to-$20 price point, especially in the warmer weather. We’ve had great success in the past year with the 2009 Beaujolais. There are some benchmark wines made there, and as soon as I bring a container in, I find myself ordering another a few weeks later. So it’s nice to see the focus on affordable fresh wines still there.

SND: What regions do you sell the most of?

Adams: Most of our sales are from France—Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne. Obviously, we follow the Rhône, Loire and Alsace as well. And then after that we sell a lot of wines from California. Even in the down economy, we were able to position our offerings from California to meet the right price points. And then of course Italy, Spain, Germany, Chile, plus South Africa is coming back a little bit.

SND: Spirits account for roughly 5% of your sales. Where are you seeing growth in that category?

Adams: We’re seeing a trade-up there as well. People are spending a little bit more on their vodkas and whiskies. When we moved into our current location (in 2007), spirits became a growth category for us but it’s leveled off. There’s still a little bit of growth, but it’s not astronomical like it was when we first moved here.

SND: How do you feel about wine being sold in grocery stores?

Adams: We don’t believe that it’s the right thing. And for me it’s a matter of, you can’t just suddenly change the rules and tell people that all the business models they’ve built for decades or years are no longer applicable. It just doesn’t seem that any proposal I’ve seen for wine in grocery stores deals effectively with the people who have existing businesses. Is it impossible? I’m not going to say that, but they haven’t shown anything (that seems fair).

SND: What are your plans for the future? Are you still considering opening new stores?

Adams: Now that the economy is getting brighter, there are a few things I’ve been thinking about. I can’t disclose too much, but yes, we’re interested in positioning this store outside of New York state the way it should be positioned. I’m taking it quite seriously. I hope that we can do something in the next 12 to 18 months. I’m optimistic that it can be fulfilled.